Fuel System
There are a couple of areas where my fuel system strayed from the plans: 

Where ever a fuel carrying line penetrated a fuel tank wall I installed a small threaded 1/4" (7mm) mild steel plate. I used mild steel (cold or hot roll) because it is easy to get a good epoxy bond if you roughen it up (I sand blasted it) just prior to bonding. The plate is tapped for the appropriate Nation Pipe Thread (NPT) into which I screw standard steel AN-6 or 8  aircraft fittings. The system was plumbed with aluminum tubing.

The second major difference was that I constructed my tanks per-plan, but fully closed them and tested for leaks before final installation. There were two reasons I did this; firstly I had read multiple reports of leaking header and main fuel tanks. Secondly, when I talked to the EZpoxy Technical Support, I was advise that EZpoxy did not reach its full fuel resistance unless it was cured at 180 degrees for a minimum of 4 hours.


Constructing the fuel tanks external to the aircraft allowed me to jury-rig a small(ish) oven from aluminum foil backed ridged household foam insulation and cure the tanks. The tanks were then tested for leaks and installed permanently in the aircraft by imbedding them in flox and taping them per plans


The inner support components are fabricated



The Inner support structure is installed in the main tank.


The main tank goes into the oven prior to closing so as to cure the inner surfaces.


Work begins on the header tank which is made from scraps of foam leftover from bulkhead construction.


The outside of the header tank is complete. Now I must fiberglass the inside of the tank.


Inside fiberglassing of header tank complete.


Hard point for four fuel lines; pump 1, pump 2, overflow return, and vent.


Lower hard point tank outlet is made from a piece of 1/4" x 1" angle iron.


First time in oven to cure inner surfaces.


First wet out the fiberglass, then put on the sheet of peelply, then the sheet of release film.


Flip it over (BID up) and lay it into the fuselage.


Put a bead of flox around the prepared edge of the tank and set it in place on top of the uncured BID.


Make sure it stays where you put it. (that's an automobile battery).


The next day lift the whole tank out of the fuselage.


Peel off the peelply.


Admire the results, then put it back into the oven at 180 degrees F for at least 4 hours. (I did it over night.)


Test it with gasoline for as long as you can wait. 


Admire it some more.


Flox up the top of the tank and the fuselage. I used a tool with serrated edges that linoleum layers use for spreading their adhesive.


Imbed the tank in the flox and when cured, use the tapeing schedule describe in the plans for securing the tank.


My 'oven' is just a six sided structure made from the foil backed ridged foam used in home insulation. The heat source is a refrigerator which I modified some years ago as a constant temperature box for testing electronic gear.

I used a commercially available dual range (heat/cool) controller. Cost about $100 ten years ago. The heat comes from the innards of a dual range 800/1500 watt floor heater. I was concerned that the fan in the heater and two computer fans used to keep the air stirred, might not like the elevated (180F) temperatures. However, after more than 100 hours of use they've showed no distress.